CREOLE HERITAGE

by Chef John Folse, CEC

 The Creole and Cajun cultures are quite distinct and so are their cuisines. The first Creoles were documented in Mobile and Baldwin County, Alabama in the early 1700s, Natchitoches and New Orleans followed in 1714 and 1718 respectively. The Creoles were the offspring born of the European aristocrats, wooed by the Spanish to establish Mobile and New Orleans in the early 1690s, and the native population. Second-born sons, who could not own land or titles in their native countries, were offered the opportunity to live and prosper in their family traditions here in the New World. It is believed the word Creole can be traced to one of two origins. First, the old Spanish word "Criallo" meaning a mixture of cultures or color such as in the word Crayola. Secondly, from the Latin word "Creare" meaning to create as in creating a new race. Today, the term Creole represents the native born children of the intermarriage of the early cultures settling the South. These include the Native American, French, Spanish, English, African, German and Italian and further defines the cuisine that came from this intermarriage.

The original Acadian immigrants came to Nova Scotia from France beginning in 1620. They were primarily from Brittany, Normandy, Picardy and Poitou. These fishermen and farmers had learned how to adjust, survive and make a life for themselves in Acadie. When the French were exiled from Nova Scotia; and the refugees began arriving in South Louisiana from Canada in 1755, they were already well-versed in the art of survival. Following their exile, these French Catholics found a new home compatible with their customs and religion. Once again, they were faced with the task of survival. Armed with their black iron pots, the Cajuns, as they had come to be known, utilized what was indigenous to the area. No attempt was made to recreate the classical cuisine of Europe. None of the exotic spices and ingredients available to the Creoles was to be found by the Cajuns in Bayou country. They were happy to live off the land, a land abundant with fish, shellfish and wild game.

The influences of classical and regional French, Spanish, German and Italian cooking are readily apparent in Creole cuisine. The terminologies, precepts, sauces and major dishes were carried over, some with more evolution than others, and provided a solid foundation for Creole cooking.

Bouillabaisse is a soup that came from the Provence region of France in and around Marseilles. This dish is integral to the history of Creole food because of the part it played in the creation of gumbo.

The Spanish, who actually played host to this new adventure, gave Creole food its spice, many great cooks and paella, which was the forefather of Louisiana's jambalaya. Paella is the internationally famous Spanish rice dish made with vegetables, meats and sausages. On the coastline, seafoods were often substituted for meats. Jambalaya has variations as well, according to the local ingredients available at different times of the year.

The Germans who arrived in 1725 were knowledgeable in all forms of charcuterie and helped establish the boucherie and fine sausage making. They brought with them not only pigs, but chicken and cattle as well. A good steady supply of milk and butter was seldom available prior to the arrival of the Germans.

The Italians were famous for their culinary talents. They were summoned to France by Catherine de Medicis to teach their pastry and ice cream making skills to Europeans. Many Creole dishes reflect the Italian influence and their love of good cooking.

From the West Indies and the smoke pots of Haiti came exotic vegetables and cooking methods. Braising, a slow-cooking technique, contributed to the development of our gumbos. Mirlitons, sauce piquantes and the use of tomato rounded out the emerging Creole cuisine.

Native Indians, the Choctaws, Chetimaches and Houmas, befriended the new settlers and introduced them to local produce, wildlife and cooking methods. New ingredients, such as corn, ground sassafras leaves or file powder and bay leaves from the laurel tree all contributed to the culinary melting pot.

It would be remiss if we failed to mention the tremendous influence of "the black hand in the pot" in Creole cooking. The Africans brought with them the "kin gumbo" or okra plant from their native soil which not only gave name to our premier soup, but introduced a new vegetable to South Louisiana. Even more importantly, African Americans have maintained a significant role in development of Creole cuisine in the home as well as the professional kitchen.

Creole cuisine, then, is that melange of artistry and talent, developed and made possible by the nations and cultures who settled in the South Coastal areas. Those of us, who know and love it, keep it alive by sharing it with the world.

Cajun cuisine is characterized by the use of wild game, seafoods, wild vegetation and herbs. From their association with the Indians, the Cajuns learned techniques to best utilize the local products from the swamps, bayous, lakes, rivers and woods. Truly remarkable are the variations that have resulted from similar ingredients carefully combined in the black iron pots of the Cajuns. Jambalaya, grillades, stews, fricassees, soups, gumbos, sauce piquantes and a host of stuffed vegetable dishes are all characteristic of these new Cajun "one pot meals."



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